Photo essay from Tiruvannamalai

For years, I had heard about Arunachala, the spiritual heart (some say of the world) at Ramana Ashram. I had heard about the spiritual communities that had sprouted amidst the local village, necessitating more markets, stores, restaurants, chai stalls, dwellings and yoga shalas. I saw photos of foreign spiritual seekers dressed in traditional Indian clothing, draped in mala beads, their foreheads smeared with powder. I knew of spiritual teachers leading meditation retreats. I listened to seekers describe Arunachala’s power, while others told stories about mystical experiences. When I had an opportunity to join a meditation retreat set at the foot of Arunachala, I signed up. I didn’t know what to expect outside of meditating for twelve hours a day. The topics of “power” and “mystical experiences” sounded interesting in a vague way, like hearing about how if I invested in crypto, I’d end up with a million in the bank. Uh-huh, sounds rather vague.

I had planned to stay in Tiruvannamalai for three weeks. I ended up staying for three months. Beginning on my first day, I burst into tears that resulted in the deepest bawling session. I wept every single day for 90 days. Arunachala had made a devotee out of me. I’m not Hindu; I never believed in gurus, but I knew in an instant that this Holy Hill was my guru.

RAMANA ASHRAM

On the one hand, the ashram was the site of pious pilgrims to offer their devotion, and many did intense practices such as circumambulating Arunachala barefooted in scorching heat. On the other hand, it was a place where residents and devotees could relax and feel like they were visiting their kindly grandfather’s house. I witnessed dogs run through the main hall, monkeys run through and steal someone’s bag-lunch, children playing with mother’s sari-shawl—even peacocks made an appearance!

STREET SCENES 

OH DOGS! OH MONKEYS! OH MY!

Perhaps it is due to my staying in holy communities—Tiruvinnamalai in the south and McLeodganj in the north—that I witnessed animals living naturally, without fear. Sri Bhagavan had stated that animals who had come to the ashram were there to work out the rest of their karma, and therefore should be treated with utmost respect. I had the pleasure of being around some of the ashram dogs, especially this cutie who entered the main hall every night for evening chanting.

I habitually meditated with a scarf over my head to help my focus to go inwards, and also to avoid the stares of curious Indians. One evening during meditation, I felt a “whoosh” and lifted my scarf. It was the same dog who had come in for evening chanting and had plopped himself right in front of me. He listened attentively all night.

DOGS OF TIRUVANNAMALAI

OH MONKEYS!

When I first came to India I would marvel, “Oh, monkeys!”—as in—how cute. But having been here for awhile now, “Oh, monkeys!” takes on different tones depending on the situation.

Oh monkeys!—it’s 5:00am and there are two adolescents balanced on the rail playing with a sarong on the line and making all sorts of racket. Kelly, the volunteer from England, emerges from her room with a big stick, bangs it on the ground and says “Shush monkeys!” They scamper away.

Oh monkeys!—it’s early morning and I’m walking from the kitchen back to my room carrying piping hot bowl of oatmeal when a large blurry object suddenly leaps in front of me—a ginormous male who is making a quick get away from our living quarters and nearly topples me over in the process. In this case I didn’t even flinch and muttered “Oh monkeys” under my breath.

Oh monkeys!—the photo above is of one monkey grooming another. They perched themselves at the entrance of Ramana Ashram. The sweetness and peace emanating from these beings matched the serenity and peace exuding from the ashram and captured many of our hearts.

SARASWASTHI CHILDREN’S VILLAGE 

I had the pleasure of visiting a girl’s orphanage in Tiruvannamalai. Here is a description from the website:

“The Saraswasthi Children’s Village provides a secure and happy environment to 37 orphaned and abandoned girls, who are all thriving with the loving support of staff and each other. The girls’ lives are full of opportunities to learn dance and musical instruments, athletics, organic gardening, and academic lessons outside of school. Any girl wishing to continue education after high school is fully supported and many of the girls want to attend higher education so that they can join the Regenboog team as doctors, nurses, teachers, and social workers and help others as they have been helped.”

The girls are not shy and approached us easily, asking “What is your good name?” and “Where are you from?”

One girl came up to me and without uttering a word, put her hair band around my wrist. I was unprepared: I did not have anything to give her in return. The only things in my purse were tissue paper, sunscreen, and hand sanitizer. However, it was not things they appreciated, but our attention, and this we gave them in abundance. We were invited to observe their dance rehearsal.

The grounds are beautiful, in a natural setting and immaculately clean.

They split into groups to work on art projects, which they showed us and for which they received heaps of praise.

EVERYONE GETS FED!

Ramana Ashram

When I think of India, one of the things that comes to mind is how one is constantly besieged by beggars. However, during my recent stay at Arunachala-Ramana Ashram, I observed that everyone gets fed. Due to the grace emanating from Arunachala, but I witnessed amazing compassion and generosity. When Sri Bhagavan was in his earthly body, he mandated that dogs should be fed first (no wonder I love him!), then beggars, then devotees ate last.

In this spirit, I present how those who live around the Holy Hill get fed. First up, Dogs!

Above: This cutie pie waits at the ashram parking lot at 4:00pm for his afternoon treat. An American man drives up daily on his scooter with bags filled with Danishes to distribute to the dogs. This dog ran up, happily howling and greeting the man. He is shy to eat because I’m staring and taking his photo.

Later, I discovered that this man’s name is Leslie, the founder of Arunachala Animal Sanctuary & Rescue Shelter.

Above: These dogs live near the guest house where I stayed. At first I thought they were strays because they were always out and never with their person. (How American of me; in fact I was witnessing how dogs live naturally, out in nature and not locked up all day). Then I started seeing platters of yellow cumin rice and bowls of milk set out on the side of the road or on the mound. One morning I saw my neighbor, an Indian woman, supervising her dogs (the ones I thought were strays) eat their rice and milk because there was a line of large black crows waiting to eat their food! When the dogs have had their fill and the lady leaves, the crows eat the rest.

Below: Dogs and monkeys get fed on one of the trails of Arunachala

Below: Cows eating out of garbage bin (very common). Several times I fed cows biscuits and half a loaf of bread. They are just like dogs, they knew I had food for them. They nudged me and ate out of my hand. 

Early every morning I witnessed women creating these beautiful designs—called kolam—and thought it was purely aesthetic. It is, but additionally the symbols bring blessings to the dwellers of the building AND they are meant to feed the tiniest of creatures—insects! The designs are made of ground up rice and colored with food-dyes.

Below: Ramana Ashram regularly feeds sadhus (holy people) but it appeared to me that beggars and general public got in line also. Generous, wholesome ashram food.

Lastly, this devotee gets fed: “American breakfast”; Moroccan eggs with organic tomatoes and spinach on ragi pancake (gluten-free) with side of lime-cumin yogurt sauce; and a cappuccino that must’ve been made with eight shots of espresso because it was like rocket fuel!

Bon appetit!