I flew to Vientiane, Laos to make my volunteer visa for Thailand. Unfortunately, I had failed to consult the Thai Embassy calendar and didn’t realize that Friday, May 8 was a national holiday—”International Women’s Day”. I had assumed I could pick up my passport that day, and fly out that same evening. But after having already booked my flights, I realized I’d have to change them and cool my jets until the next business day—Monday—an extra four days.

Photos above and below: Direct from dusty, hot, low-hygiene India where I stepped in someone’s feces every day—cow, monkey, dog, peacock, human—I arrived into shocking luxury. My hotel had upgraded me for free to a jacuzzi room, replete with Louis XIV style furniture!

I was not happy, remembering that my previous visit to Vientiane waaay back in 2002 hit notes of an underwhelming, unexciting city. Cue the tumbleweed blowing across the vast plains. That trip occurred at the tail-end of a three-months excursion that originated in Thailand; that traversed through three countries and their land-border checkpoints. By the time we rolled into Vientiane, the gang I traveled with—an international motlew crew—were sporting threadbare trousers that exposed derrière flesh, appeared haggard and gaunt from bouts of giardia, and did not want to eat anymore cheap fried rice. Taka, from Japan, scouted a Japanese restaurant tout de suite and commandeered a table for eight hours a day, relishing the air conditioning and tonkatsu.

I submitted my passport bright and early the following morning, on Thursday. To my surprise, the Thai Embassy lady told me to come back that afternoon to pick up my passport! They were doing a special same-day rush process so people didn’t have to spend an extra four days in Vientiane! Pity they didn’t publicize it on their website; I could have flown back to Thailand tout de suite!

Grumpy and ungrateful, I meandered around the center of the city. In a perfect setup, much to my delight, I discovered a plethora of cafés. A legacy of French-Indochine—Laotian cuisine includes excellent coffee, baguette sandwiches, authentic French food, and proper pastries. One can’t throw a rock without hitting a café—the café culture is alive and well!

Dada Coffee and Café France sit kitty-corner.

Fashionable downtown Vientiane boasts high-end restaurants and cafés. 

I wandered into Scandanavian Bakery and ill-advisedly ordered a brownie and Swedish chocolate cake (which they warmed and served with whipped cream). Pity, I ate them both—so good for about twenty minutes, then suffered for the next 24 hours with gut-stagnation.

I was now rediscovering Vientiane and found myself enchanted—and yes grateful—to “have to” spend extra days here. I guess I’ll just have to enjoy my luxurious room and decadent molten chocolate cupcakes (((sigh))).

Sunset vs. Kawaii

Being located near the Mekong River, I planned to walk along the quay to watch the glorious southeast Asian sunset. I had often watched the sunset over the Mekong from the Thai side, and remembered the fiery orange to watermelon pink hues that saturated the sky. I was on my way when I discovered a Miniso! Oh no! Too much kawaii!—and like the brownie and Swedish chocolate cake—I could not resist and left the quay.

Bye bye sunset.

Hello kawaii!

Emoji powder puffs!

K-Town in V-Town

I also discovered numerous Korean spas advertising massage and healthy menus such as detox juices. Korean restaurants boasted a healthy clientele. On one occasion, I had been looking for a convenience store when I spotted a K-Mart—Korean mart. The store stocked imported food from Korea.

Inside K-Mart: jonesing for some kimchee?

Korean travel agents.

I had been totally unaware that Laos was such a popular destination for Koreans. Aside from investments and political ties, it sounds like Koreans want relief and release from.. well…Korea:
https://www.mindanews.com/travel-lifestyle/2013/09/travel-more-koreans-choose-laos/

The link below describes how one popular place in Laos was shot on location and featured in Korean drama:
https://thediplomat.com/2018/12/south-korea-laos-move-to-solidify-ties/

V-Town Vibes

So, what did I do in Vientiane? Absorbed the laid-back vibe like the locals.

Man playing guitar, singing to himself—not even busking—just chillin’ in 98F weather.

Tuk-tuk driver taking a noon-time siesta in a hammock in his cab.

Laotian larb: chicken with fresh mint leaves, chilies, diced green beans, and fried shallots in a lime fish sauce broth.

Relaxing in an elegant café.

Picturesque neighborhood: Buddha carved into a tree.

Picturesque neighborhood: French shutters.

Picturesque neighborhood: graffiti, old-style tuk-tuk.

Indulging in more chocolate cake

Before your minds get perverted, the name of this café is Naked Espresso. However, the two mounds of whipping cream appear to be topped with chocolate fudge nipples…

On my last day, I attempted to watch the sunset over the Mekong. Unfortunately, thick smog dominated the sky. The sun disappeared into a layer of grey haze.

But all was not lost—I found a Daiso! More Japanese kawaii!